Alpine Everest Guides Nepal
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Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring 2012

Mount Dhaulagiri (8167m.) was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit "Dhavala" means "White" and girl is "Mountain" The mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873; but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949.

The French mount Annapurna expedition in 1950 had permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri. A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later.

After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass.

As French Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col., The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.

Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese in 1970s, the Americans in 1973 and the Italians in 1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to the US expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition pet. It was carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it was finally eaten up in the cooking pot.

Itinerary:

 

04 April 2012

Day 01

Arrival and transfer to Hotel.

05 April 2012

Day 02

Preparing Expedition

06 April 2012

Day 03

Briefing in Ministry of Tourism 

07 April 2012

Day 04

Drive by Bus to Beni & Galeshor Camp

08 April 2012

Day 05

Beni - Darban - Camp

09 April 2012

Day 06

Darbang - Baskot village

10 April 2012

Day 07

Baskot village - Bagar - Camp

11 April 2012

Day 08

Bagar - Dovan - Camp

12 April 2012

Day 09

Dovan - Pina (forest camp) sallaghari

13 April 2012

Day 10

Pina (forest) -Italian Base Camp - Camp

14 April 2012

Day 11

Italian Base Camp - Dhaulagiri Base camp - Camp

15 April - 12 May 2012

Day 12-39

Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m. Expedition

13 May 2012

Day 40

Prepared for coming back

14 May 2012

Day 41

Dhaulagiri Base camp - Yak Khark

15 May 2012

Day 42

Yak Khark - Jomsom

16 May 2012

Day 43

Fly Jomsom - Pokhara - Kathmandu

17 May 2012

Day 44

Kathmandu

18 May 2012

Day 45

Final Departure

 

Cost includes:

 

  • 4 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (3 star).
  • Permit fee of Dhaulagiri Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters Beni to Dhaulagiri Base camp & Base camp to Beni
  • Kathmandu -Pokhara-Beni- Land Transportation
  • Fly Jomsom - Pokhara and Pokhara - Kathmandu by tourist bus.
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  • Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator (If used, It will be paid it from user)
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  • Well come dinner

 

Cost does not include:

 

  • PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu & Pokhara
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
  • Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing
  • Personal expenses
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • Garbage Deposit and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.

 

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